Out of the Frying Pan And Into the Antipodes--
Recipes & reminiscences from 70-plus years of New Zealand & Australian food; with some of the loves, some of the lovers, and some of the culinary & social history.
(A few names & places have been changed to protect the guilty)

Saturday, 27 February 2016

Offal? Awful: Lily-LIvered

Offal? Awful
“Foie”. Nouveau Larousse illustré, circa 1900

Morning tea time. Those present are mostly retirees, volunteers. They’re almost but not quite over the weakness of the way I like my tea—still get the occasional comment on it. I could comment on their dark orange brew— Just shut up and try to blend, Katy! How the topic of offal comes up do not ask me. It's not something I'd have raised, I don’t want to stick me neck out. The word “liver” is mentioned.
    “UGH!” they all go, shuddering.
    What? It's not even as if they’re all members of the Anglo-Saxon majority! Oh, forget it. It's the nice middle-class syndrome. Goes with the kitchen drawer-liners. 

    Since Gégé showed me how to cook liver—in a past life, right—I’ve been a great fan of it. In France it was always foie de veau and I never asked if it was milk-fed, because the nice English papers were already very down on that concept—it seemed to get coupled with fox-hunting, not sure how—and I'd have had to get on my Anglo-Saxon high horse about it, if it was. He very kindly spared me the horse-meat “steaks” (paper-thin slices), however: he knew the British Commonwealth did not eat horse.
    It was only in the latter half of the 20th century that liver, for centuries a British favourite, along with tripe and other sorts of offal, fell out of favour in the Antipodes. Today most people shudder if you mention it, my nice ladies are merely representative of the vast majority. 

The Written Word
Trace the history of liver since the middle of the 20th century through the English-language cookery books, and it’s a real laugh. Doesn’t relate to perceived reality, at all. The writers kept on advocating it, meanwhile the public was avoiding it more and more...
    I'm not talking about pâté, mind you. Since about the 1980s that’s become very nice. The slimier the better. One serves it on unspeakable crackers as God-knows-what, um, hors d’oeuvre? Stan the Man (that past life again) used to call them “horses’ doovers,” and he wasn't far wrong. It also features at really foul parties where you don’t get to sit down. I’d call them cocktail parties only I don’t think the expression ever reached the Tropic of Capricorn—the drinks certainly didn’t. Red or white wine, possibly not technically Château Cardboard, but that level.
    You don’t believe pâté’s still very nice in the 21st century? Then get a load of “Grilled Brioche with Pâté and Caramelised Fig” (Donna Hay Magazine, Issue 42, Dec. 2008-Jan. 2009). What you do, see, you slice up a brioche, toast it in a pan, having brushed it with butter, bung the pâté on, type unspecified, so it’s bought slime from a plastic carton for sure, slice up some fresh figs and caramelise them in a bit of sugar and pop them on the top. Very nayce indeed. Especially the brioche, wot has to be translated for youse yobs: “Brioche is a slightly sweet bread made with eggs and butter. You can buy loaves of brioche from supermarkets and bakeries.” (Not in my local Foodland you can't, but these days you can’t even buy bread there unless you belt in at 9 in the morning. Dunno who they think they’re serving, but it ain’t the public.)
    I'm not exaggerating—though, true, this is one of the nuttier canapé recipes in this mag. God knows what was the inspiration. As if to prove brioches aren’t that available, the accompanying pic has used what looks very like sliced white bread: the substance is much, much closer-textured than cooked brioche dough should be. This is a glowing example of an extremely la-de-da vision of modern Australian middle-class life. Yuck!
    Please don't rush out and buy an up-market brand of potted pâté just to prove me wrong about the slime thing. I tried some just the other day—my online grocery sent some freebies with my last order, desperate to get rid of the stuff, one can only presume. The thing was so-called duck with orange. The pâté itself was very, very, very smooth (slime, right), highly scented (best bet, juniper berries with some thyme) and extremely—extremely—sweet. Where the orange came in was not discernible to the taste buds, though the half-centimetre of stiff jelly it was covered in was certainly a fruity dark orange colour. You couldn’t taste the liver, though maybe that was the object of the exercise. Yeah, thanks for that, posh lady that gave your name to it.
    No, I’m talking about liver qua liver. In large blobby damp lumps, very raw. 

In the Far-Distant Past...
Isabella’s Liver
Of course Isabella Beeton is going to tackle liver, she tackled everything, bless her. She has several recipes for pork liver, including “PIG'S LIVER (a Savoury and Economical Dish)” which bakes the liver and “lights” (lungs) with some bacon, onion, parsley and sage. Most of her liver recipes, however, are in the section on veal. This one is definitely the most appealing: 

880. INGREDIENTS.—A calf's liver, flour, a bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley; when liked, 2 minced shalots; 1 teaspoonful of flour, 1 tablespoonful of vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and salt to taste, 1/4 pint water.
     Mode.—Procure a calf's liver as white as possible, and cut it into slices of a good and equal shape. Dip them in flour, and fry them of a good colour in a little butter. When they are done, put them on a dish, which keep hot before the fire. Mince the herbs very fine, put them in the frying-pan with a little more butter; add the remaining ingredients, simmer gently until the herbs are done, and pour over the liver.
Time.—According to the thickness of the slices, from 5 to 10 minutes. Average cost, 10d. per lb. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable from March to October. 

Boot-Liver in the Antipodes
At the end of the 19th century the Antipodean cook wasn't afraid of liver, though perhaps she should have been. Here’s Mrs Wicken’s take on it (The Art of Living in Australia, 1894): 

Fricassee of Liver
Half a Calf's Liver; 1 1/2 oz. Butter; 1 Carrot; Lemon Juice; 1 Onion; 1 oz. Flour; 1 pint of Gravy; Parsley; Pepper and Salt
Total Cost—6d. Time—One Hour
Wash and slice up the liver, and dip in the flour; fry very lightly and quickly in the butter and lay in a saucepan. Slice up the carrot and fry in the same butter. Stir in the gravy, boil up, and pour over the liver; simmer very gently for one hour, then dish carefully. Season the gravy with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; boil up and pour over it. Serve hot. 

Gégé would have had a fit at the idea of simmering liver for an hour! If you want little bits of greyish boot-leather, this is the way to go. Sorry, Mrs W., you bombed here. 

Liver à la Bourgogne à l’Américaine
The American book, 365 Foreign Dishes: A Foreign Dish for Every Day in the Year (Philadelphia, 1908) has three recipes for liver, including this one: 

Liver à la Bourgogne
Season a calf's liver with salt and pepper; put a few slices of bacon in a saucepan; let get very hot. Add the liver, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 2 bay-leaves and 2 sprigs of thyme minced fine; cover and let brown a few minutes. Then add 1 glass of sherry wine, salt and pepper and sprinkle with flour. Let simmer ten minutes.

It doesn't cook the vegetables long enough, obviously. And sherry is Spanish, nothing to do with Burgundy. Oh, well. Not a bad try. But slice and dry the liver first!
Canopian Liver?
This book’s other two recipes are “German Liver Dumplings” and what would be a pâté en croûte, “Egyptian Meat-Pie,” if only it was to be eaten cold, not hot! No, I can’t see what's Egyptian about it, but apparently “liver” meant Egyptian in traditional cordon bleu-inspired English-language cookery books right up into the 1960s! The Larder Chef, by M.J. Leto and W.K.H. Bode (London, Heinemann, 1969) offers a gem of an Egyptian salad with chicken livers:

Meanwhile, Back in the Home Kitchen
The books of course represent the literate end of the spectrum. Liver and onions, or liver and bacon, simply fried, were standards in the British home cookery tradition for years.

    In fact, these dishes were such everyday fare that it’s a surprise to find Australian cooks being offered an actual recipe in the Green and Gold Cookery Book around 1949. It’s listed as a breakfast recipe. We didn't have fried food at home, the occasional fritter was as fried as it got, but throughout the 1950s and well into the 1960s liver and onions or liver with bacon remained standard fare to such cooks as Mrs D. down the road, but not for breakfast, for tea (“dinner” these days, in refined circles). It is not easy to cook liver well and this recipe for “Liver and Bacon,” in common with most recipes of its time, assumes that you have a lot of background knowledge: 

Liver and Bacon
One lamb's fry                  1/2 lb. bacon
1 oz. flour                         1 teaspoon salt
quarter teaspoon pepper   parsley
Soak the fry in cold salted water for half an hour. Cut in pieces one inch thick, wash well and dry thoroughly. Coat with seasoned flour. Remove rind from bacon and scald if necessary. Heat fryingpan and cook bacon in its own fat. [Remove.] If necessary add more fat and cook liver 10 to 12 minutes. Place liver in centre of dish, bacon round edge. Pour over gravy and garnish with chopped parsley.
    To Make Gravy: Carefully drain off fat, stir in the remainder of seasoned flour, and brown well. Add gradually half pint stock or water and boil for three minutes. -A.L.S. 

If you forget to remove the bacon you end up with bits of salty cardboard. And “A.L.S.” doesn't specify how hot the pan should be: I’d say medium heat. When she talks about seasoned flour she means mix the salt and pepper with the ounce of flour. NB, if you add this amount of salt the dish will be far too salty—not that the modern Australian diet isn't. 

Going Up-Market
Robin McDouall’s Cookery Book for the Greedy, 1965, a reprint of his 1955 Collins Pocket Guide to Good Cooking, was a vain attempt to reintroduce the post-War cooks of the Commonwealth to really good food. A small minority would have read it and adored it—the same people who were reading Elizabeth David, and could actually afford, not to say find, the ingredients. The rest never knew it existed.
    It shows its origins in the traditional chefly, vaguely cordon bleu, Escoffier-inspired approach of the much older cookery books in English written by men, but as well many of the recipes are either traditional British food (to be reprised by Jane Grigson some years later in her English Food) or the cream, so to speak, of the European cuisines. Thus “Gaspacho” and “Avgolemono” jostle “Cocky-Leeky Soup,” and “Cèpes à la bordelaise” neighbours “Cauliflower Cheese.” For pudding we can choose “Pets de nonnes,” “Zabaglione (Sabayon),” “Prune Mould,” “Flower Fritters” or “Rice Pudding”! Many of the recipes are simple, others are quite complex, and there are lots of instructions for the basic preparation of various foodstuffs.
    Here’s his very simple recipe for calves’ liver. It suffers from the English parsley syndrome, but otherwise it’s not bad. Try doing it as Gégé often did, with a little dried thyme added to the pan. (Well, French thyme: it comes in tiny dry bushes, and you strip the leaves off the twigs straight into the pan.) Again, the pan shouldn’t be too hot or the liver will burn on the outside and not cook through. It should be still moist and just pinkish in the middle. 

Calves’ Liver (Foie de veau)
(Serves 4)
Cut a pound of calves’ liver into slices about a quarter of an inch thick. Wash them and dry them; season and dip them in flour. Fry them on both sides in butter or bacon fat. Take them out and drain them. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serve with them, if you like, rashers of bacon, cut very thin, fried in a very little fat or grilled until they are crisp, and then drained of all grease. 

Robin McDouall also has a recipe for “Foie de veau au vin rouge”, but as it makes a sauce and then simmers raw bits of liver in it I don’t recommend it. Maybe he could bring it off but I doubt that anyone else could. 

And More So: Not Cookery, Cuisine
By the 1970s the kweezine syndrome had begun to rear its ugly head: to be good, food had to be fancy. Josceline Dimbleby’s “Calves' Liver with Gooseberry Sauce” (A Taste of Dreams, 1976) fries the liver, adds gently fried onions and tomatoes—not bad so far—and then souses the lot in a sauce made with tinned gooseberries, sherry, mint and, as if your taste buds weren’t already shrieking in pain, capers! A dream? More like a nightmare.
    Ya see, to be up-market, it’s gotta be mucky. The up-market cooks of the 21st century would learn that lesson off their up-market mums and grandmas.
    Of course, foreign cuisine was also up-market. Claudia Roden’s A Book of Middle Eastern Food was first published in 1968 (London, Nelson), republished in paperback in 1970 and reprinted in the middle of the 1970s, by which time it had become the English-language authority on the cuisine of the Middle East. She's got several recipes for liver, including two which use vinegar in the sauce (one Sephardic, one Lebanese), and one for fried liver which marinates the liver pieces first in an oil and vinegar mixture which is a dead ringer for a vinaigrette. Don’t ask me why vinegar is associated with liver—Mrs Beeton does it, too. I’ve had this book for years but I've never been game to try liver with vinegar, thanks all the same, Claudia. Her Albanian recipe is better: small pieces tossed in flour and paprika before frying, then extra paprika in the hot oil drizzled on the result.
    Judging by the cookbooks which followed, none of these efforts to reintroduce liver in a fancy frame had any result. 

Back to Basics?
Huey’s “Lamb’s Fry & Bacon” (on Huey’s Kitchen, http://www.hueyskitchen.com.au, 2011) is a classic English-style version of liver and bacon. This is an exception to the desperate modern attempts to make liver up-market. “Huey” frequently offers old-fashioned standard recipes like this, alongside his much trendier, more up-market ones. He is a New Zealander, though based in Australia, and his recipes often reflect his heritage. The so-called “lambs' fry” was always available in New Zealand butchers' shops when I was a kid, because hogget and mutton were standard fare. 

Lamb’s What?
By the time Huey was calling liver “lamb’s fry” the usage had entered into the vernacular. But don’t be misled by Mrs Beeton’s recipe for “lamb’s fry”: this is “fry” in the intensely mealy-mouthed sense given in the OED, “the product of lamb castration”—balls, Inspector. The method of cooking them is very similar to the standard method for brains, which is to boil lightly first, then you can fry them, with or without seasoned flour or breadcrumbs.
    How the phrase came to be used solely for lamb’s liver in Antipodean butcheries, I cannot tell, but I do remember our butcher having liver under this name when I was a kid. Ruder parts of the animal had disappeared entirely by the middle of the 20th century: the recipe above from the Green and Gold Cookery Book is already using “Lamb’s Fry” to mean liver in about 1949. 

Going, Going... Gone. Totally Up-Market
Today offal is typically revived only in very up-market recipes with lots of fancy ingredients, like this shocker: “Seared Calves Liver with Persillade and Parsnip Mash.” What? Yep, this appears in The Australian Women's Weekly's 680-odd-page, 2006 compendium Cook: the one recipe they can dredge up for liver (p. 242). (Don't buy this book! It's dreadful.)
    Where do I start? Well, for one thing, parsnip and asparagus? The two tastes swear at each other! But calves’ liver? Pull the other one. It's almost impossible to get calves’ liver in Australia. It’s nearly always ox liver, not properly cleaned and trimmed, with giant veins left in it. No wonder most people are put off for life. 

From the Ridiculous to the Sublime
How do I eat liver? (When I can get it, yeah.) Well, the method I got off Gégé in Paris is still the best: fry the slices quickly in oil on a medium-high heat, adding a little thyme or garlic if available. Then remove the liver from the pan, add an excellent tinned vegetable, well drained—petits pois or salsifis were his favourites—rapidly heat through and serve together. Or you could lightly boil or steam some young green beans and add them. But for variety, try this: 

Hot Liver with Sweet Peppers
(Serves 2)
250 to 300 g beef or pork liver
1 sweet red pickled pepper (capsicum) (or 1/2 big one)*
1 chopped onion                2 cloves garlic
1/2-3/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (e.g. Tabasco)
2-3 tablespoons oil            salt & pepper
1. If using Australian liver it will be very poorly butchered. Clean it of all veins, thick skin and stringy bits. Chop into pieces about 2 by 4 cm.
2. Warm the oil in a frying pan or electric frypan on a moderate heat, add the chopped onion and sauté gently till transparent.
3. Add the chopped garlic and mix well.
4. Add the liver and stir until all sides are coloured and lose their raw look. Keep pan on medium-low heat, cook about 10 mins or until liver is cooked but still softish inside.
5. Add sliced pepper, Tabasco, salt and pepper, stir in well to warm through.
* You could use a fresh capsicum, grilled, with the skin removed. The effect is different but nice. 


Wednesday, 10 February 2016

Coffee Hell & Coffee Heaven

Coffee Hell
& Coffee Heaven


Early days: Coffee Hell
Look out, it's the dreaded percolator! The older siblings cringe... He gets it out. He inspects it narrowly—don't ask why, he’ll personally have scoured it with lashings of washing-up detergent. He gets out the ground coffee...
    Oh, God. Here is it: pale fawn, in his large, lowish cup that's his coffee cup. Offers Mum some. She usually refuses, not because she can’t stand it—doesn’t know any better, poor woman—but because her claim is after-dinner coffee’ll keep her awake. How could anything that weak keep anybody awake? What’ll keep her awake is that dark orange cup of tea she has at 9 o’clock, regular as clockwork, rain or shine, Hell or high water.
    There's plenty! –There would be, there’s two level teaspoons of coffee in the thing to at least a pint of water. More, thinking of the size of the milk bottles.
    “You can't know you won’t like if you don’t try it.”
    Dad, of course I can know it, one look at— (Don’t say it.)
    “Just because you don’t like tea—”
    I give in. “Okay, then. Ta, Dad.”
    UGH! It tastes like boiled cigarette ash in hot water. The full-cream milk only slightly ameliorates it.
    He looks round the table hopefully. No takers. He drinks it... Give the man a medal! Or clap him up, mm.
    That was coffee, when we were young. Forget the high water—sheer Hell, yep. 

    Where did such awful coffee come from? Well, Dad’s mean streak, partly. But it was largely the Colonial heritage, suffered by the whole of the English-speaking world. Theoretically the cookery writers knew how to make good coffee. Well-roasted beans—from the mid-19th century the books are full of advice about well-roasted beans—and boiling water. At the same time, they also advise really awful, hair-raising things: 

“Allow 4 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of ground coffee to each person; to every oz. of coffee allow 1/3 pint of water.” Mrs Beeton, in 1861. Hang on! Is she really advocating 4 times 1/3 pint of water to every person’s one tablespoonful? That’s one and a third pints, Isabella!! A pint is 600 ml, so we’re looking at 800 ml of water to 1 tablespoon of coffee. I’ve just checked my PDF file of The Book of Household Management, vol. 3. p.176, and that is what it says. Is it a misprint? Maybe it should be 1/4 oz. to each person?? Or “to every 4 oz. of coffee”?? Unfortunately it doesn’t read that way, and sousing a tablespoon of coffee in that much water certainly accounts for the awful pale fawn coffee of the British tradition! 

“As Madame Lebour-Fawssett remarks, CAFE AU LAIT is never complete without chicory.” Dr Philip Muskett, 1894, in The Art of Living in Australia. His instructions, which include an incomprehensibly detailed description of a French “cafetiere” (see below), are so verbose as to be unintelligible, so maybe we can discount him. But chicory ain't coffee. Cheaper, though—yep. 

“Standing on the grounds does not spoil the flavor of coffee as it does tea.” An American, Martha McCulloch-Williams, in Dishes & Beverages of the Old South, 1913. Her instructions are really good—up until this unfortunate sentence, alas! Leave your coffee to stand and you get that ole southern tobacco-ash flavour. 

“Stand the pot over fire or gas until it comes to the boil, let it simmer from half an hour to an hour; serve with enough hot milk to half fill each cup, and you will have a drink fit for a king or a millionaire.” From “Mrs. C.R. Morris”, in the Australian Green and Gold Cookery Book, 15th ed. (rev.), circa 1949. How long? In conjunction with the adjuration just under this recipe (and at the bottom of each page of this book) to "USE BUTTER - NOT IMITATIONS", a regular serve of Mrs Morris's well-boiled coffee would have gone a fair way towards taking the king or millionaire off in his prime. Never mind, by 1949 very few Antipodeans could afford real coffee anyway—or wanted to. 

The Essence of It
Back in the Fifties and Sixties when we were young there was no instant coffee—unimaginable, eh? It was real ground coffee or coffee essence, period. Mum refused to buy coffee essence—dunno why, think it was classed as both revolting and lower-class, but she wouldn't have used either expression, too mealy-mouthed. Funnily enough she managed to get the point over, though: she was good at that, poor old Mum. Whereas other people’s mums, her own old friends, and various aunties (ours or Dad’s) trotted out the sticky bottle without thinking twice about it.
    “You could have coffee instead of tea, dear.”
    “No, thanks, I’d really rather just have a drink of water.”
    “Never mind!” (Brightly). “I can always use it in a cake—or I’ve got a lovely recipe for a coffee pudding!”
    Gulp. “That sounds nice; ta.”
    Real ground coffee was very dear, reason why almost no-one we knew bought it. Well, almost no-one in our suburb could afford a car, there was no cash to waste on fripperies. So Dad was very, very mean with the amount he used. In his shoes, wouldn’t you have skipped the almost-nightly routine and settled for a week’s worth of coffee all at once? It would have been strong, at least. Mind you, the percolator would still have ruined it. Oh, well.
    Coffee essence was hugely popular with Antipodean home cooks right through the first sixty years of the 20th century. Suburban ladies, inveterate tea-drinkers themselves, used it as a drink as well as putting it in cakes and puddings. How it caught on, God knows. True, with two world wars and a depression, real coffee was just too hard to get and too dear when you could get it. 

“During the Great Depression of the 1930s, chicory became a popular coffee substitute and additive and Bushell’s began making coffee and chicory essence.”
(Museum Victoria, http://museumvictoria.com.au/) 

Lots of people in Australia and New Zealand loved it—I only remember the Bushell’s brand, but in Australia the “Turban” brand was terrifically popular, and people have nostalgic memories of its rich syrupy taste. Apparently. (See the comments, same site, under “Bottle - Kornies Food Co, Turban Brand, Essence of Coffee & Chicory, 1940s”).
    You can still buy coffee essence and you still find old-fashioned Australian cooks using it in baking, though instead of the cakes and biscuits of fifty-odd years back they now use it in “slices,” as in “Coffee Caramel Slice” from “TrishJ” (http://www.bestrecipes.com.au) 


Curiouser and Curiouser
Really weird coffee-making machines bobbed up in British culinary history from the middle of the 19th century: somehow the writers seemed to get the notion that the more complex and difficult to assemble the machine was (the engineering syndrome creeping in here, think it's a male-chromosome-linked gene), the better your coffee would be.

1861: Mrs Beeton’s Mad Machine

“There are very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making the coffee is nearly always the same; namely, pouring the boiling water on the powder, and allowing it to filter through. Our illustration shows one of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted for making good and clear coffee, which should be made in the following, manner:—Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and movable filter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn. Put the movable filter over this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly on the end of the centre pipe. Pour into the inverted lid the above proportion of boiling water, and when all the water so poured has disappeared from the funnel, and made its way down the centre pipe and up again through the ground coffee by hydrostatic pressure, unscrew the lid and cover the urn. Pour back direct into the urn, not through the funnel, one, two, or three cups, according to the size of the percolator, in order to make the infusion of uniform strength; the contents will then be ready for use, and should run from the tap strong, hot, and clear.” 

1894: Dr Muskett’s Incomprehensible Apparatus
“The ... number of different models of coffee-makers is almost perplexing. But of them all, the one which is simplest, and perhaps most effective, is the ordinary CAFETIERE, or French coffee-pot. This has the advantage of costing only a few shillings, and is readily obtainable from any ironmonger. It consists of an upper compartment in which the coffee is made, and a lower part—the coffee-pot itself—into which the coffee descends. These two portions are quite separate, although the upper fits on the lower. The floor—on which the coffee is placed—of the upper part is perforated by a number of minute holes There is also a movable strainer about an inch in depth, which fits on top of the upper part; and a presser, consisting of a long rod with a circular plate at its end, which for convenience passes through the centre of the strainer, and rests on the perforated floor of the upper part.” 

Drip, Drip, Drip
Of course what you really want is something simple, that’ll allow the hot water to penetrate the coffee slowly, for a good strong taste, and come out at the end without those pesky grounds. (Innumerable remedies for floating coffee grounds were tried—white of egg was one; and I think Anne of Green Gables is told to use eggshells, remember that?)
    And thus the dreaded filter coffee was born... 

1861: Isabella?
The more I read Mrs Beeton’s book, the more convinced I am that the hubby, Mr S.O. Beeton, who was her publisher, had a definite hand in the pie. Like, more than just a finger. I can see Isabella and her faithful cook with their heads together over the actual recipes for The Book of Household Management, yes. They're mostly nice and clear, you can still follow the instructions today. But the descriptive bits, the history of the foodstuffs et al., are in quite a different style: long-winded, prosy and quite often boring. I'd take a bet it was hubby who advocated that daft coffee machine. She has to explain that for a large party (which you'd think an urn would be ideal for), it's too slow!

    And I reckon this early filter idea is his, again, not hers: 

1811. INGREDIENTS.—Allow 1/2 oz., or 1 tablespoonful, of coffee to each person; to every oz. allow 1 pint of water.
Mode.—Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot inside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for the purpose must not be too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some boiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the ground coffee into the bag; pour over as much boiling water as is required, close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove the bag, and send the coffee to table. Making it in this manner prevents the necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which cools and spoils it. The water should be poured on the coffee gradually, so that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made, that none of the grounds may escape through the seams, and so make the coffee thick and muddy.
Sufficient.—Allow 1 tablespoonful, or 1/2 oz., to each person. 

(Here a tablespoonful, the amount of coffee per person, is half an ounce, so her other recipe is definitely misleading.) 

1913: Drip Coffee: The American Contribution
Martha McCulloch-Williams provides more than one way of making coffee, in her Dishes & Beverages of the Old South. Here’s her take on filter coffee: 

Drip Coffee
Two things are essential—an absolutely clean urn, and sound coffee, freshly parched, and ground neither too fine nor too coarse. The water must be freshly boiled. Put a cup of ground coffee in the strainer, pour upon it about two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, let it stand until the water drips through and there is no more bubbling, then pour on more water, but not too much, let it drip, keeping both the strainer and the spout covered to prevent the loss of aroma. Repeat until you have used almost five cups of water—this for four cups of strained coffee, as the grounds hold part of the water.
Keep the pot hot while the dripping goes on, but never where the coffee will boil. If it dyes the cups it is too strong, but beware of making too weak. 

“Beware of making too weak.” Yeah. You said it, Martha. Dripping and filtering produces ye good old cigarette ash, as we were to discover... 

Moving with the Times
He's got a new coffee maker! They're in the new place. Us kids are well out of it but conscientiously coming home during our holidays. Well, some of them. Once a year, usually. If we can manage it. Mum's made this place even more anally neat than the last, but that was only to be expected. So, on the pristine bench, he proudly places his new, um, thingo...
    “What is that?” –in a hiss. My sister shushes me.
    He’s boiling the electric jug, is it gonna be the greatly feared dark orange tea after all? (Don't say it.)
    Now he's fumbling around in a drawer. Not the sacred cutlery drawer, no, the specially dedicated bits-and-bobs drawer for stuff she hardly ever uses... Huh?
    Produces a jar of ground coffee. “See, this is the filter.”
    He unfolds it and puts it in the plastic top thingo that's sitting on a new sort of jug. See-through. The jug, I mean.
    “You put the coffee in the filter—” Long involved explanation, not too finely ground, but fine enough, blah, blah, oh, buy it at the new delicatessen, do ya, Dad? They'll’ve seen you coming, that’s for sure: isn’t the guy that runs it German or Austrian or something? And the filter bags, right, got that. I endeavour to nod comprehendingly, well, understandingly— You goddit that far back, huh?
    And the boiling water goes into the top part and when it's filtered through it's done!
    So now we all gotta have some. I don’t even need that sideways meaning look from my sister. Even Mum’s having some, as it’s only mid-morning. (Instead of that 10.15 a.m.-on-the-dot cup of dark orange tea? Has the world run mad?) Well, that proves it'll be weak as anything...
    UGH! It tastes like boiled cigarette ash in hot water. The skim milk only slightly ameliorates it.
    After this I get a demonstration of how to dispose properly of the used filter...
    It dawns. Shit, ya can't re-use the bloody things! He’s throwing his hard-earned away on that, and she's letting him? ...Oh, right, got it: falls into the “harmless boy’s toy, let’s humour him,” category. Heaven preserve me from a relationship like that! 

Coffee Heaven
Gégé produces after-lunch coffee as a matter of course. The lunch was far heavier than I’m used to: sautéed calves’ liver with tinned petits pois, how he managed to make it absolutely delicious I dunno, he's a superb cook. Think these must be what the really posh English cookery books refer to as demitasse cups. Small.
    He asks: “Combien de sucres?”—I’m blank.—“Deux?” he suggests.
    “Eugh—oui, merci, Gégé.” Funny-looking little blocks: must be cube sugar, never seen it before, in a crumpled dark blue packet. Well, it would have been a very neat, oblong packet before he wrenched it open. We stir...
    He reminds me that he warned me it’d be strong. Yeah, but I thought it'd be that stupid drip coffee muck that those ning-nongs in the French Department back home loftily make in their dinky genuine-French, unobtainable-in-EnZed apparatus: tastes like boiled cigarette ash in hot water, yep.
    This isn’t coffee, mate, this is nectar!
    “Ton café est formidable, Gégé!”
    He just grins, he already knows this, see, and as he’s been to England several times, he also knows that anything that passes for food or beverages in the British Commonwealth is putrid.
    Silently make up my mind that I’ll buy a coffee-pot like his, and take it home with me no matter whether it makes my baggage overweight and I have to pay a fortune for it. ’Cos it'll be worth it.
    “Alors, c’est un truc français, ton—eugh—ta cafetière?”
    Must be the right word, he doesn’t contradict me. He’s already decided to correct my French, it'll help me to learn, and although his English is excellent he’s forcing me to use French, it's the only way I’ll learn. At the moment I’m struggling. I can read it fine but I haven’t got much of an ear for languages, I’ve discovered. And of course they all speak in slang—tutoiement all round. Well, all his mates are either students or ex-students, like him. –But surely, you cry, we must have had audio-lingual classes when I was an undergrad? Not in the NZ of the Sixties, no. And none of the lecturers were actually French, so they all spoke the French of Stratford atte Bow.
    Ooh, heck, the coffee-pot’s not French, it's an Italian brand! But you can buy them everywhere, they're really cheap.
    With my luck? But I’ll give it a go. Um, well, there's that supermarket not all that far away—Gégé despises it, he won't use it, but it does have useful things, e.g. tampons, that his wonderful local market doesn’t. The market only stocks such things as incredibly fresh vegetables, wonderful runny cheeses, and so-fresh-they-twitch-under-the lemon-juice oysters. Right in the centre of Paris. Yes, true: we're just off the Grands boulevards, in the Dixième. Unbelievable!
    And I know what! If the supermarket doesn't have the pots, I’ll look up my Guide Michelin and go to Au bonheur des dames!
    Oops, no: Le bon marché. Too much reading hath made thee mad, Katy. 

    I don’t ask Gégé how to get to a shop that sells the coffee-pots, or what shop to go to, because I've realised that letting me look up his little book of maps of the Métro lines and forcing me to speak French, plus happily imparting his culinary knowledge, is as far as he goes. He's not into babying adult human beings, not even ones that have come halfway round the world and are completely at a loss in a foreign culture. I didn’t even realise that the little local shops wouldn't be open on Monday afternoons. In fact even after I discovered it, it took quite some time before it dawned that this must be what old-fashioned English novels call “early closing.” Gulp. And of course I’m not used to living in a great city at all, we’ve always lived in the suburbs with the traditional Antipodean quarter-acre.
    Anyway, Gégé is definitely not the supportive type. Just as well his girlfriend is pretty independent, eh? And of course she’s lived here all her life, she doesn’t need practical support. The poor thing agreed to have me as a boarder, but now that I’m here she’s jealous. Unfortunately there’s no way I can tell her tactfully she doesn't need to be: although I can recognise he's charming, and I do like him very much, Gégé would be impossible to live with. And what he believes is his conscious rejection of all the bourgeois icons (and which I can see perfectly well, being an outsider, in fact isn't), is very tiresome—puerile, really. Her father’s a judge, so she's even more into rejecting the bourgeoisie and all they stand for than him. They’re about my age but they still haven’t grown out of the student thing, and a lot of their friends are the same. But I have. In fact I was never in it. Well, seeing both sides to every question—and frequently five different sides—does tend to inhibit rabid, blind support of any stance.
    Day after tomorrow he’ll take me to a very interesting play at a very avant-garde little theatre, will he? Don’t understand the next bit but I think he's trying to say it’s theatre in the round. Oh, the actors are all nude! Right, goddit, that’ll be thrilling.
    Gee, it’s not thrilling. Well, the men’s figures are all skinny, pale, droopy-shouldered European ones, the girls’ boobs are only remarkable for their smallness and flatness, nobody looks as if they washed recently, and in any case the place is so tiny and they’re all so huddled up that the nudity is barely noticeable. Besides which, if none of this breathless audience has realised it, we have all got bodies.
    “Qu’est-ce que t’en pense?”
    Well, Gégé, I think it was puerile. “Très intéressant, oui.”
    He's so pleased with himself that he doesn’t notice a thing. Oh, well.
    But at least I managed to find a nice cheap coffee-pot! 

Back in the Antipodes
Very, very much later. I've now found a recipe very like the typical suburban aunty’s coffee pudding of my youth in the Calendar of Puddings: A Pudding a Day for the Whole Year, published by the South Australian Country Women’s Association around 1952. Like most Antipodean cookery books of its era, it was published over and over again, so the last thing its proud editors wanted was (apparently) a date on it. The book is very heavy on the favourite soggy hot puddings of this era: steamed or boiled (“sponge” puddings, etc.). On the lighter side, there are baked custards, jelly-type dishes and blancmanges. Domestic refrigerators were already available in Australia, though not yet so common in New Zealand, and there are already recipes for homemade ice cream. 

Now, you've got 365 days to choose from, so what would you choose for February 10, which is guaranteed to be one of the hottest days of the year, often hitting 40 to 43 degrees, in South Australia? —Yeah, so would I: the colder the result and the less cooking required, the better.
    Nah. No way! Turn your stove on—and if it's a wood-burner, that you’re stuck with on an Outback farm, so much the better, woman was born to suffer! The next step is to fill your kitchen with steam. After you've passed out, the pudding may still be salvageable. It’s technically a sort of custard and presumably (though the recipe doesn’t say), meant to be served cold: so when the menfolk stagger in from a hard day’s yacker on the property (or from the pub, if working in town), you can proudly produce it from your lovely new shiny Frigidaire! 

Midgley Mould
3/4 pint milk, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon castor sugar, 1 teaspoon vanilla essence, 1 teaspoon strong coffee essence, 1 tablespoon caramel (the last can be made by melting a little sugar in a saucepan).
Beat eggs thoroughly with the sugar, and then add all the other ingredients. Stir well, pour into buttered mould, and steam gently, covered with greased paper, for about 1 hour, or until set. Serve with cream. –MRS W.J. WALSH (Spalding).
I failed to find out why “Midgley” (though I admit I didn’t try very hard). Presumably the secret of the derivation of the name, together with the secret of whether the thing’s supposed to be eaten hot or cold, has disappeared along with Mrs Walsh. (Many crucial instructions went unsaid, in these recipe books. As a proper Antipodean housewife, you were supposed to know.) 

The Quintessence
For a really superb coffee pudding all you need is coffee beans, sugar, a little gelatine, and real cream. Not sprayed out of a can and not adulterated with muck to make it jelly-ish, as in today’s Aussie supermarkets: just real cream. The cream seems to intensify the flavour of the coffee. I call it “Coffee Cream” but its real name, which is totally misleading, is “Crème au café blanc”. The original is in Jane Grigson’s Food with the Famous (1979), where she attributes it to Alexandre Dumas. She adds lemon peel, but I loathe lemon with dairy products. 

Coffee Cream
(for 6-8 people)
4 heaped tablespoons dark roast coffee beans
600 ml cream
2 tablespoons sugar
15 g (1 1/2 packets) powder gelatine
6 tablespoons boiling water
1. Crush the coffee beans roughly.
2. Put beans, cream and sugar in a heavy saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring all the time.
3. Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Stir often and taste until the cream seems strong enough.
4. Dissolve the gelatine in 6 tablespoons boiling water, stirring briskly.
5. Strain the cream mixture onto it, and discard the beans.
6. Pour into 6-8 small tumblers (whisky tumblers are ideal). Put in the fridge and chill until set. 

I've made this recipe, it's wonderful. It’s not suitable for kids, obviously. Serve it at a dinner party for your best friends.