Out of the Frying Pan And Into the Antipodes--
Recipes & reminiscences from 70-plus years of New Zealand & Australian food; with some of the loves, some of the lovers, and some of the culinary & social history.
(A few names & places have been changed to protect the guilty)

A Gourd's Story


A Gourd’s Story
Pumpkin, Zucchini & Friends

Once upon a time there was a gourd vine who grew and grew…


Good Things Take Time
The Gourd is proud to have reached the same height as the 100-year-old Palm within only a few summer days. The plant thanks Nature for allowing him to grow so quickly. But the Palm hears the Gourd’s boast and replies that what grows quickly will also wither quickly. The Palm gives the example of the quick-growing fish ‘Effimer’ (Ephemeral) that only lives for one day, and the slow-growing elephant that lives for 300 years.
(Clarck Drieshen. “Fabulous Mr Fox and Other Wise Tales.” British Library Medieval Manuscripts Blog, 18 May 2020)

    This is a story from a Mediaeval version of the collection of fables called Speculum sapientiae. Originally written in Latin, the fables in the gorgeous illustrated MS version held by the British Library are a German translation known as Das Buch der natürlichen Weisheit (The Book of Natural Wisdom) by Ulrich von Pottenstein (fl. 1398-1416). The whole article is well worth reading: the animal illustrations in particular are entrancing.
    When I read this delightful offering from the British Library I was immediately inspired to find some recipes for the gourd-like butternut pumpkin for you. I read up my notes on gourds (Cucurbita) and decided that I couldn’t leave out pumpkin’s close cousins, zucchini.


    “Cucurbita (Latin for gourd) is a genus of herbaceous vines in the gourd family, Cucurbitaceae, also known as cucurbits, native to the Andes and Mesoamerica. Five species are grown worldwide for their edible fruit, variously known as squash, pumpkin, or gourd depending on species, variety, and local parlance, and for their seeds. Other kinds of gourd, also called bottle-gourds, are native to Africa and belong to the genus Lagenaria, which is in the same family and subfamily as Cucurbita but in a different tribe. These other gourds are used as utensils or vessels, and their young fruits are eaten much like those of Cucurbita species.”
(“Cucurbita”, Wikipedia)

    So here they are. Mostly old favourites, with a few I chose for interest.


Gourd in the Soup
A word of warning: if you’re stirring a pumpkin soup, use a long spoon and wrap your hand and wrist in a towel. Pumpkin soup is a notorious spitter and splatterer.
   I’m sure everybody’s got their own favourite. I chose this one because it’s a bit different.

Pumpkin and Coriander Soup
    1 kg butternut pumpkin;  1 bunch of coriander;
    3 brown onions;  1 litre water or vegetable stock;
    1 tablespoon cracked black pepper;
    50 g butter or 1 tablespoon oil;
    Optional: 300 ml cream
1. Dice pumpkin and onions, then brown with cracked pepper on high heat until onions are soft.
2. Add water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 15 minutes.
3. Remove from heat, add coriander and blend.
4. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve.
5. Optional: add 300 ml of cream, blend, then garnish with coriander and serve.
(Robert Manning. In Stop Hunger, Start Cooking! Recipes Fresh From the Garden. Carlton, Vic., Oxfam Australia, [2012])

Cool Gourd Salad
The foodie websites have inundated us over the last couple of years with recipes for roast pumpkin salads. These are usually large, substantial dishes, obviously intended as a major part of the meal, not as a salad course. If the weather’s hot enough to contemplate a salad as your main course, why on earth would you want to turn your oven on?
    Give it away. If you want a gourd salad, you can’t go past the delicately delicious taste of raw fresh zucchini:

Raw Courgette Salad
3 small zucchini or 2 medium-sized
Dressing:
1 clove garlic, crushed;  2 teaspoons red wine vinegar;
2 tablespoons olive oil;  1/8 teaspoon black pepper;
1/4 teaspoon salt
1. Put dressing ingredients in a bottle or jar with a tight-fitting lid about 1 hour before you need the dressing. Shake well.
2. Wash and dry the zucchini and cut off the stalk and the hard little tip at the flower end.
3. Cut them into julienne strips the thickness of wooden matchsticks and about 5 cm in length, or into very fine rings.
4. Shake the dressing well and pour over the zucchini, discarding garlic.
5. Toss and let marinate at room temperature for 45 minutes.
6. Chill for 15 minutes before serving.
–Serves 2.
(James Chatto. The Seducer’s Cookbook. Newton Abbot, David & Charles, [1981])

“Courgettes” and “zucchini” are the same thing. When this recipe was published (I’ve reformatted it, but it is James Chatto’s recipe) the English used the French term rather than the Italian. This dish can be served as a separate salad course or as a light and refreshing hors d’oeuvre. It also goes very well with a Middle Eastern or Moroccan meal. The fresher the zucchini are, the better the salad will taste.

Gourd Meets Pasta
Sage is delicious with pumpkin. Its tangy zest complements the vegetable’s sweetness. You could just substitute crumbled dried sage for the rather fanciful (if reputedly genuinely Italian-style) fried leaves in this dish:

Butternut Squash and Fried Sage Pasta
8 ounces [250g] whole-wheat penne;
1 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds [1 kg]), peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes;
1 medium red onion, thinly sliced;  8 sage leaves;
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped;  1 tablespoon olive oil;
1/4 teaspoon black pepper; 1/2 teaspoon salt
Garnish: 1/4 cup grated Parmesan
Cook penne as directed on package.
Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Fry sage, turning once, until crisp on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to a paper towel.
Add onion and garlic to skillet. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and golden, about 3 minutes.
Add squash, 3/4 cup water, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until squash softens, 5 to 7 minutes.
Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup cooking water. Return pasta to pot and add squash mixture; stir over low heat, adding some reserved cooking water if necessary, until pasta is coated, about 1 minute. Serve, garnished with cheese and sage.
Serves 4.
(Kerri Conan. SELF, February 2010, in Epicurious.com),

    This next, very simple dish is a classic from Elizabeth David:

Spaghetti con Salsa di Zucchine
(Spaghetti with Zucchini)
    10 oz (300 g) pasta (spaghetti or other pasta);
    1-1/2  lb. [about 700 g] zucchini;
    oil or butter;  salt & pepper
Cut a good quantity, about 1-1/2 lb. of zucchini into thin rounds.
Fry them gently in oil or butter, or a mixture of both, and when they are soft pour them over a dish of spaghetti or any other pasta. Add salt & pepper to taste.
A way of serving spaghetti from Positano.
–Serves 4.
(Elizabeth David. Italian Food. 2nd ed. (revised), London, Macdonald for the Cookery Book Club, 1966)

Curry That Gourd
Here are my own two recipes for gourd curries. They’re loosely based on Indian recipes I’ve read over the years. The more robust pumpkin one is quite tangy—you can vary the amount of heat to taste. The zucchini curry, however, is a delicate, lightly spiced dish.

Pumpkin Curry
    1/2 kilo pumpkin (preferably butternut);  1 onion;
    1 packet tomato paste (about 2 tablespoons);
    1/2 to 1 cup water;  1 teaspoon coriander powder;
    1/2 teaspoon cumin powder;  1/2 teaspoon turmeric;
    1/2 teaspoon chilli powder or cayenne, or to taste;
    2 tablespoons oil
    Optional: 1/2 teaspoon salt
1. Peel the pumpkin and chop into 2-cm cubes. Slice the onion finely.
2. Heat the oil in an electric frypan or deep frying pan on medium heat and fry the onion to a pale gold with the coriander and cumin.
3. Add the turmeric and the pumpkin, stir well, fry for a few minutes.
4. Add the tomato paste, chilli powder and salt (if desired) with half cup of water; stir in gently until paste is amalgamated.
5. Lower heat and stir occasionally, cooking uncovered on medium-low heat, till done. If it gets too dry add more water. Very little liquid should be left at the end.
    May be garnished with chopped coriander and/or a spoonful of plain yoghurt if liked. Serve with plain rice and a green vegetable, or as part of an Indian meal.
–Serves 2 as the main dish in a vegetarian meal.

    Next is a simplified version of a much more elaborate recipe which included cream as well as yoghurt. It’s a bit fiddly to do but so long as the zucchini are fresh, it tastes very nice.

Zucchini Curry with Yoghurt (Stuffed Zucchini)
This can be finished in the oven or in a lidded frying pan or electric frypan that is big enough to take the zucchini halves.
1 kilo zucchini;  1 onion;  1/4 cup yoghurt;
1/2 teaspoon turmeric;  1 1/2 teaspoons coriander powder;
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper;
3 tablespoons oil;  1/4 teaspoon salt
1. Wash and dry the zucchini and split them lengthwise. Remove the interiors, leaving enough so that the shells will not be too thin. Chop the extracted vegetable.
2. Heat the oil in a frying pan on medium heat. Fry the onion, chopped finely, until pale gold. Add the chopped zucchini, the turmeric and a teaspoon of coriander. Stir gently for a minute. Then add the yoghurt and cook till the yoghurt is almost dry. Add salt, and stir well.
3. Lay the zucchini shells out in a baking dish or frypan that is just big enough to take them. Place the mixture in the shells. Sprinkle with remaining coriander and pepper.
4. Bake in a moderate oven or frypan with the lid on, sitting in a couple tablespoons water, until shells are done.
–Serves 4.

A Gourd in the Pan
Pumpkin chips? Incredibly good! I’ve got a facsimile reprint of this cookbook dating from the turn of the 19th century, and it was worth buying for this recipe alone.

Zucche fritte
(Strips of pumpkin fried in olive oil)
Peel, halve and seed 1 small pumpkin (smaller than a football).
Cut into strips the size of chips and leave them in a sieve, sprinkled with salt, for a couple of hours to get rid of excess moisture.
Heat oil (olive or frying oil) in deep pan. Dip the strips in seasoned flour and fry until cooked and light brown.
Drain well and serve at once, with a squeeze of lemon.
(Janet Ross (1842-1927). Leaves From Our Tuscan Kitchen, or How To Cook Vegetables. 2nd ed., London, J.M. Dent & Co., 1900)

Courgettes With Fresh Herbs
500 g courgettes or zucchini;
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, chives);
1 teaspoon lemon juice;  2 tablespoons cooking oil;
1 tablespoon butter;  salt and pepper to taste
Cut courgettes into 5 mm slices.
Melt butter and oil in a frying pan.
Add courgettes and cook gently for 5-10 minutes until just tender. Turn the slices over once or twice during cooking.
Stir in the herbs, lemon juice and seasoning.
Serve immediately.
Serves 4-6. Delicious served with lamb or chicken.
(Mary Browne, Helen Leach & Nancy Tichborne. The Cook's Garden: For Cooks Who Garden and Gardeners Who Cook. Wellington, [N.Z.], A.H. & A.W. Reed, 1980)

Gourd on the Grill
To grill or not to grill? It’s very easy to ruin a delicate vegetable by slinging it on the barbie. If you want to grill zucchini, here’s my tried and true method:

My Grilled Zucchini
Per person:
1 - 2 medium zucchini.
1. Wash the zucchini, dry thoroughly, and remove the stalk end.
2. Slice the zucchini lengthwise into strips about 1/2 cm thick.
3. Heat a grill plate or non-stick frypan (preferably a heavy one) to medium-hot.
4. Lay the zucchini slices on it. Cook for a few moments, until the flesh is browned, then turn over and just brown the other side quickly. They will now be soft and cooked right through but not soggy.
5. Quickly transfer to plates and serve immediately.

This is my translation of a modern French recipe. Why the French should suddenly run mad over pumpkin in the second decade of the 21st century is beyond me, but apparently they did. There were weeks of pumpkin recipes! Most of them were nothing new to a reader from the Antipodes, but I thought this one looked different, and quite easy if you use bought pastry, as the original concedes you might. If you don’t like goat’s cheese, try mozzarella in it instead.

Rustic Pumpkin Pie with Goat’s Cheese & Hazels
Tarte rustique au potiron, fromage de chèvre et noisettes
This “rustic pie” is baked directly on the oven tray.
    Short pastry (about 300-400 g)
    250 g pumpkin, peeled;  80 g hazelnuts;
    1 small packet white goat’s cheese;
    fresh thyme;  3 tablespoons olive oil
    salt; freshly ground black peppercorns
1. Dice the pumpkin and cook in a frying-pan on medium heat with 2 tablespoons olive oil until tender but not mushy. Add salt and pepper to taste.
2. Cut up the goat’s cheese into 1/2 dozen or so slices. Roughly crush the hazelnuts.
3. Heat the oven to 180° C.
4. Roll out the pastry into a large round, about the size of large dinner plate or a little more, and about 3 mm. thick.
5. Spread out the cooked pumpkin mixture in the centre of pastry crust leaving an edging 3 cm wide. Add the sliced cheese.
6. Sprinkle the crushed nuts on top, scatter with fresh thyme leaves and then fold up the edges of the pie over the filling (as in the picture).
7. Spread the rest of the olive oil over the crust and the pie filling.
8. Bake for 30 minutes.
9. Allow to cool a little before serving.
(Nadia Paprikas. In 750g : de la vie dans la cuisine!)

A Gourd That’s a Bit Different: Bitter Melon
The popular Asian vegetable “bitter melon” or “bitter gourd” does not belong to the Cucurbita genus like the pumpkins, squashes, etc, but it does belong to the same plant family, the Cucurbitaceae. Its botanical name is Momordica charantia. I have tried it, in spite of warnings from a kind Chinese friend, and it is horribly, startlingly bitter! I like the European bitter vegetables like witloof (endives belges or chicory) and curly endive (la frisée), but bitter melon defeated me.


    Khalid Aziz writes in his cookbook, The Encyclopedia of Indian Cooking: “The bitter gourd is a strange-looking vegetable, … with a gnarled surface. It is … generally considered to be far too bitter to be used as it comes, so a special technique is used to prepare the gourd. When buying bitter gourds make sure that they are quite firm and have not begun to soften. If they are soft then you will find that the inside will have a rather woolly texture.
    “To prepare karela or bitter gourd:
    “Top the gourds, cutting about 3 cm/1 inch off the bottom end. Use this bottom end to rub against the cut surface of the karela in a circular motion and you will see that a kind of foam is created. This process serves to extract some of the bitterness from the bitter gourd.”

This is the simplified version of his recipe that I made. I’m including it for interest, but honestly, I couldn’t get through it!

Mixed Vegetable Curry with Bitter Gourds
120 g bitter gourd, sliced;  225 g frozen green beans;
120 g carrots, peeled and sliced;  1/2 capsicum, diced;
1 medium onion;  1 cloves garlic; 150 ml coconut milk;
1/4 teaspoon chilli powder;  1/2 teaspoon ginger powder;
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds;  1 teaspoon black pepper;
1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander; 1 teaspoon turmeric;
1 teaspoon garam masala;  50 ml cooking oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
Heat oil in a large, heavy saucepan (at least 1-litre capacity) on medium heat. Peel the onion and garlic and slice them very thinly. Fry them gently in the ghee until soft. Add the spices except for the garam masala and fry for another minute.
Add the vegetables, coating well with the spicy onion mixture. Then add the coconut milk, bring to the boil, cover the saucepan, turn the heat down and simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the garam masala and salt. Stir in well and simmer for a further 5 minutes.
There should be not too much liquid with this dish; if there is, increase the heat to rapidly boil off the excess moisture.
–Serves 4.
(Adapted from: Khalid Aziz. “Mixed Vegetable Curry: Aviyal.” The Encyclopedia of Indian Cooking. London, Michael Joseph, 1983)

Pumpkin for Pudding
Probably we all think of pumpkin pie if a dessert dish with pumpkin is suggested. But in Latin America, where these gourds originate, all sorts of other sweet dishes are made from them. Here’s a quick and easy version of pumpkin empanadas.
    Empanadas are just turnovers. They can be sweet or savoury and they may be baked or fried. They are traditionally made from a circle of dough, forming a semi-circle, and if you look them up online you’ll find some very attractive pictures, crimped edges an’ all. This is a much faster and easier method, using ready-made pastry, that I picked up from a recipe for “Banana-Black Bean Empanadas”. The filling, which is very like a pumpkin pie filling, is from a recipe where you make the pastry from scratch.

Easy Pumpkin Empanadas
    450 g cooked pumpkin;  1/2 cup sugar;
    1/2 teaspoon cinnamon;  1/4 teaspoon ginger;
    1/8 teaspoon cloves;  1/4 teaspoon salt
    2 sheets frozen puff pastry (approx. 450 g), thawed
    1 egg, beaten to blend (for glaze)
1. For filling: Mix ingredients together and set aside.
2. Preheat oven to 425° F [218 C]
3. Roll out each puff pastry sheet on floured surface to about 32-cm square. Cut each into 8 squares.
4. Place 1 heaping tablespoon filling in centre of squares.
5. Brush edges of squares with glaze.
6. Fold 1 corner over filling to opposite corner, forming triangle. Using fork, seal crust edges.
7. Arrange on rimmed baking sheet; brush with glaze.
8. Bake empanadas until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
Serve hot.
Makes: 16
(Filling: Esperanza's Cafe (Joe T. Garcia's Bakery), Fort Worth, Tx. “Pumpkin Empanadas”, GourmetSleuth.com)
(Pastry & baking: Diane Brown Savahge, Los Angeles, CA. “Banana-Black Bean Empanadas”, Bon Appétit Nov. 2004, Epicurious.com)

Another Gourd’s Story
Let’s end with another gourd’s story. Like the first, this is a cautionary tale, though it hasn’t, alas, got a happy ending:

ANOTHER HUMPTY
Over the garden wall,
    Stony and grey and tall,
A lover Gourd was climbing
    To see his sweetheart small.
She lived on the other side,
    In riches, pomp and pride,
While he was poor, but honest,
    And his parents, all had died.
Alas, alas, alack!
    Why did he not turn back?
For now his little Sweetheart
    Will have to dress in black.
He climbed that cruel wall,
    So cold and grim and tall,
But his “stem” broke when he reached the top,
And goodness—what a fall!
It is a shame to smile, a perfect shame and sin,
But the “mess” that Humpty Dumpty made
    Was “nothing” next to “him!”
(Margaret G. Hays (1874-1925) and Grace G. (Grace Gebbie) Drayton. Vegetable Verselets for Humorous Vegetarians, by Margaret G. Hays; with illustrations by Grace G. Wiederseim. Philadelphia and London, J.B. Lippincott Company, 1911)